Showing posts with label just. Show all posts
Showing posts with label just. Show all posts

Some things you just cant do yourself

Some things you just cant do yourself


Here is the working version of our website right now. Front page (which has gone through a bunch of iterations) and subpages (first crack at these). And to think we were going to try to pull off a .mac page. SO GLAD we decided to pony up for this. (Blue boxes will have pics, and the photo gallery will run through flickr.)









Some things you just cant do yourself

How to Build a Wooden Shed in Just One Weekend

How to Build a Wooden Shed in Just One Weekend


So you have all of this stuff (like tools) thats piling up in a corner of your garage. You cant get rid of it - its IMPORTANT! Its gotta go somewhere so a wooden shed is the perfect solution. Heres a quick overview of how you do it in two days (lets assume youve picked up the materials youll need from the local supply store).


Day 1 - Foundation and Framing


The first thing youll need to do is prepare the site. It doesnt have to be level, in fact its better if the ground is slightly pitched down towards the back of the shed for water runoff. Remove any large rocks and/or debris. Because this is a one weekend project, youll have to build the shed with a wood floor instead of a concrete one. If you really want to have a concrete foundation, this will stretch the project into another week to allow for drying. But building a wood (or skid) floor is not only faster, its easier, less expensive and even somewhat portable. For this shed, use cinder (or patio) blocks to set the floor on. Make sure the blocks are level.


Now, lets get started on the actual building. Once you have the first floor joist cut, use it as a template for the rest - its way easier and faster. Heres another tip, for strength, use deck screws instead of nails. A power drill makes screwing boards together very quick work. Nail on the plywood subflooring by staggering the boards (much like bricks). You dont want four corners of four different pieces of plywood to end up in the middle of your shed.


Building the walls is pretty much the same process as building the skid for the floor. If you want any windows on the shed, frame them accordingly. To cover the sides, use T1-11 plywood. T1-11 has vertical grooves cut into it to give the appearance of tongue and groove siding but since it comes in sheets, the amount of time to put on the siding is cut way down. Take one of the wall frames and place the T1-11 on top (outside facing down). Now nail the siding to the frame. If possible, buy, borrow or rent a router to use to trim the siding to the studs all the way around the walls. Once you have the walls put together, you can now attach them to the floor. Use temporary braces to hold the walls up until you have them screwed together. Make sure you use a level to plumb the walls (they should be perfectly vertical). This is a good place to stop for the day.


Day 2 - Roof, Door and Trim


Youll start today off by building the trusses. Simply follow the plans and assemble all the pieces of the first truss. Dont nail this together yet. If the pieces all fit correctly together, take each piece and use as a template for each of the corresponding pieces of the remaining trusses. Now you can screw (or nail) the trusses together and attach them to the top of the shed walls. Next, cut and nail plywood sheets for the roof. Just like a house, for installing asphalt shingles, you will first have to put down tar paper (roofing felt). Make sure you start from the bottom and overlap each row going up. For the top ridge, use a couple of layers for strength. To apply the shingles, offset the seams and work from the bottom up like you did with the tar paper. For the ridge cap, cut down a length of shingle (they come in a line of three) into a single shingle and nail them along the top. Dont forget to overlap these as well.


You should use a door on your shed that is prefabricated which will save you a huge amount of time since all you need to do is attach it with hinges. You will want to finish off the door with trim.


Visit: www.myshedplans.com




How to Build a Wooden Shed in Just One Weekend

I was thinking I coulda just used Hardiboard but

I was thinking I coulda just used Hardiboard but


...this stuff looks great! Its Cembonit, a cement board product like Minerit. Never needs to be painted. Heavy, but not too bad too install. (The manufacturer has an entire book worth of installation instructions/warnings/qualifications of the warranty, apparently owing to excessive heat retention issues. You are supposed to use a rainscreen application. Weve only got a few pieces, and only one in the sun, so no rainscreen for us - dont tell anyone...) When we were designing the house, we talked about Cembonit in all the spaces between windows and sliders. But the tolerances were awfully tight in those spots (usually about six inch gaps). And on-site cutting is really messy and difficult, meaning we were looking at pre-ordering all the twenty or so pieces. And that seemed like a recipe for trouble. John at Res4 recommended using cedar panels in those spots, which turned out really well. (Harrison Hays was my contact at CBF.)

(***UPDATE: I see at CBFs site that they are no longer selling Cembonit and Minerit owing to supplier issues. We had about a twelve week lead reqt for our order, and Harrison had told us that there were HUGE demand issues from European builders that was making it really hard to get product into the US. Guess it got to be too much of an issue...)

Install was pretty easy, though the pieces are heavy. They came crated:


Heres the first piece, with rubber furring strips and stainless steel fasteners from the manufacturer):




Also lots of rules about where and how frequently to install the fasteners; this pic is before I got all the fasteners on:


Second location, under the deck; you can see the hot water heaters intake/vent pipes in the top corner. Unfortunate location; I wasnt there when the HVAC guy did it, and we hadnt talked about it. I used my grinder to cut a notch out of this piece:








Res4 recommended the pinwheel application for the seams:





***UPDATE: Heres the initial estimate from CBF (invoice was identical):

MATERIALS

QUANTITY DESCRIPTION UNIT PRICE TOTAL

3.00 5/16" x 4 x 8 Cembonit 144.25 432.75

1.00 5/16" x 4 x 10 Cembonit 180.40 180.40

1.00 Rolls of 1 1/4" EPDM Rubber Strips 40.00 40.00

1.00 Rolls of 3" EPDM Rubber Strips 58.50 58.50

150.00 Stainless Steel screws for wood furring 0.30 45.00

204.00 Cutting Charges 0.60 122.40

1.00 Crate Charges 75.00 75.00

1.00 Freight Charges 314.49 314.49



Materials total: 1,268.54
*Freight Quotes are good for 2 weeks only


I was thinking I coulda just used Hardiboard but